(If your gauge does not match this,change to a smaller or larger hook.)
With H hook, 4 double crochet = 1 1/8"
With F hook, 5 single crochet =1 1/8"
With H hook, 2 double crochet rows = 1 1/8"
With F hook, 6 single crochet rows= 1 1/8"
With H hook, 1 puff stitch = 1/2"

With loop on hook, do not yarn over (Insert hook in stitch, pull yarn up to 1/2", yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, pull yarn up to 1/2" for the 2nd time, yarn over, insert in same stitch and pull up yarn for the 3rd time, yarn over and insert in same stitch again, pull up yarn for 4th time, yo yarn over and pull hook and yarn through all 8 loops on hook.) In pattern: When you work the 1st double crochet immediately after the puff stitch, you need to work the double crochet tightly, so the puff stitch will stand up, but do not work the other double crochet's this tight.




This hat is worked in rounds.
With H hook, chain 3, (this counts as 1st double crochet)

Round 1: Working all stitches into 1st chain (puff stitch, double crochet) 5 times, puff stitch; join with a slip stitch to 1st double crochet. 6 Puff stitches. (See photo 1)

Round 2: Chain 3, (counts as 1st double crochet here and throughout), puff stitch in same place as joining, * (double crochet and puff) in chain 1 of next puff, (double crochet and puff) in next double crochet, repeat from * around to last puff, (double crochet & puff) in chain 1 of last puff, join. (12 puff stitches)

Round 3: Chain 3, double crochet in same space as joining, * puff in chain 1 of next puff, 2 double crochets in next double crochet, repeat from * to last puff, puff in chain 1 of last puff, join. (12 puff with 2 double crochets between each puff stitch)

Round 4: Chain 3, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, puff in chain 1 of next puff, * double crochet in next double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, puff in chain 1 of next puff, repeat from * around, join. (12 puff with 3 dc double crochets between)

Round 5: Chain 3, double crochet in same space as joining, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, * puff in chain 1 of puff, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of next 2 double crochets, repeat from * around, join. (12 puffs w/ with 4 double crochets between)

Round 6: Repeat step/round 5, working 5 double crochets between each puff stitch (2 double crochets in 1st double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of next 3 double crochets, etc)

Round 7: Repeat step/round 5, working 6 double crochets between each puff.

Round 8: Repeat step/round 5, with 7 double crochets between each puff.

Round 9: Repeat step/round 5, with 8 double crochets between. Hat will still be a flat circle at this point. (See photo below)

Round 10: Decrease row, work 7 double crochets between each puff in this manner. Chain 3, (counts as 1st double crochet) 1 double crochet in each of next 5 double crochets, work 2 double crochets together in last 2 double crochets. This is a decrease, making it one stitch. To work 2 double crochets together (in next to last double crochet, between puff stitches) work double crochet, leaving last loop of double crochet on hook, work double crochet in next stitch, and leaving last loop again, you should have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops (one decrease made) 7 double crochets between.

Round 11: Repeat step/round 10, with 6 double crochets between.

Round 12: Repeat step/round 10, with 5 double crochets between.

Round 13: Repeat step/round 12, with 5 double crochets between each puff stitch (work even with no decreases.) (See photo below)

Round 14: Change to F hook. Chain 1, single crochet in same stitch as joining, single crochet in each single crochet around. Join to 1st single crochet. (72 single crochets)
Rounds 15 - 18: Repeat step/round 14. End off yarn.

Continue with F hook (crochet tightly). With top of hat upside down in your lap with the front facing you, join yarn with slip stitch in a stitch directly above a puff stitch. (See Photo above) These rows will not be turned. End off each row.

Row 1: Chain 1, single crochet in same space as joining, single crochet in next 13 stitches. End off yarn. (14 single crochets)

Row 2: With the front side facing, join yarn in 1st stitch, 1 single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, 2 sc single crochets in next stitch (increases), 1 single crochet in each of next 6 stitches, 2 single crochets in next stitch (iincreases), 1 single crochet in each of last 3 stitches. End off. (16 sc single crochets)

Row 3: With the front side facing you, join yarn in band 2 stitches from beginning of brim, 1 single crochet in each of these 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in each of next 4 stitches of brim, 2 single crochets in next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of next 6 stitches, 2 single crochets in next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of last 4 stitches of brim, 1 single crochet in each of next 2 stitches in band. End off. (22 single crochets)

Rows 4-9: Continue working 2 more stitches of band (on each side) and 2 more stitches (increases) above increases of previous row. (6 increases on each row: row 4=28 stitches, row 5=34 stitches, row 6=40 stitches, row 7= 46 stitches, row 8= 52 stitches, row 9= 58 stitches.) Mark increases to make it easier. End off yarn.

FACING for Brim: (optional) Work to correspond to brim in following manner: These rows will be turned)

Row 1: With hat upside down in your lap, and back side of brim facing up, join yarn with slip stitch to back loop of 1st stitch (single crochet) of brim at far right. (See photo to left) Single crochet in same space, single crochet in each remaining back loop only of each single crochet across brim. (58 single crochet) Chain 1, turn. Do not end off yarn.
Row 2: Place markers to correspond to increases on brim (this is where your decreases will be) Skip first 2 single crochet, working in both loops from here on out, single crochet in each single crochet across row, decreasing 1 stitch above increases on brim, and leaving last 2 single crochet unworked. Chain 1, turn. (6 decreases - 52 single crochet)
Rows 3 - 9: Repeat row 2, decreasing 6 stitches on each row, making facing same as brim. Weave in all loose ends of yarn before sewing facing down.

With F hook, chain 3, join with slip stitch to form ring. Join next 3 rows with slip stitch.

Round 1: Chain 2 (counts as half double crochet) 7 half double crochets into ring, join. (8 half double crochets)
Round 2: Chain 2, working in back loop only, work 1 half double crochet into same space as joining, 2 half double crochets into each half double crochet around, join. (16 half double crochets)
Round 3: Chain 2, continuing to work in back loop only, 1 half double crochet in each half double crochet around, join. (16 half double crochets) End off yarn, leaving a 12" strand. With tapestry needle, thread yarn through last step/round of stitches. Pull to tighten. Sew button to top of hat with yarn and tapestry needle.

Cut piece of plastic canvas same size as brim and place in between brim and facing. With tapestry needle and yarn, sew facing to underside of brim holding the plastic canvas in place.

For the larger hat: (make changes as follows)
Round 10: Increase to 9 double crochets between.
Round 11: Decrease to 8 double crochets between.
Round 12: Decrease to 7 double crochets between.
Round 13: Decrease to 6 double crochets between.
Follow with Round 14.

Band instructions for larger hat:
Round 14: continuing with H hook, chain 1, single crochet in same space as joining, single crochet in each single crochet around, skipping the chain 1 space at the top of each puff stitch (12 decreases on row) Slip stitch to 1st single crochet. (72 single crochets) Mimi, I took off the letter "s" in the word "slips" from previous sentance.
Rounds 15 -17: Change to F hook from here on out. Chain 1, single crochet in each single crochet around.

Note: If hat is too loose on head, on Round 17, you may want to decrease 4-6 stitches spaced evenly around row, placing markers before you start. End off yarn.